Hey! Libby here, owner of Eliza Mac Fabrics.
Welcome to my first EVER blog post.
This week I took the Waves and Wild Driftwood Dolman top and gave it a fabulous ruffle sleeve.
Fabric choices:
I used a 1.5m piece of fabric and made a size M.
I created this beautiful top with our nude pink waffle knit fabric (here) which is available in other colours too. I chose this fabric because it is so soft and has a lovely give to it even though its 100% Cotton. It is such a gorgeous fabric to work with and is 300gsm so it has a good weight to it too.
Other fabrics that you could use for this make are Cotton Jersey, Viscose Jersey, French Terry or Double Gauze, each would give a different finish to the garment.
Okay, less waffling (haha!) and onto the making of this beautiful top!
Sizing:
Cutting out:
When cutting my pattern pieces for this make, I cut them all from one half of the fabric (along the length) leaving as long a piece as possible to use to create the ruffles.
Main Construction:
First of all I followed the instructions from the orgional pattern to join the shoulder seams and the neckband. The neckband was extended to make sure it fitted over my head!
Making the ruffles:
I measured down the side seam from the shoulder seam to see how far down I wanted the ruffles to come. I decided on 40cm.
The length I decided on was between 3 and 4 times the length I'd measured. For this particular one I just used the full 1.5m.
I cut a width of 6 inches (using my quilting ruler) just for ease. if you want a narrower ruffle then just cut it to your preferred width.
The final cutting part of the ruffles was to taper the corner so they flow nicely into the side seams and aren't flapping about!
So I measured up from the corner to 15cm. I then cut a freehand curve to the opposite corner (Along the short edge) repeat for the other end and for the other ruffle.
Ruffle Construction:
First of all, I set my stitch length to the longest possible length on a straight stitch ( 5mm on my machine) and created a running stitch along the long edge, I use slightly different coloured threads to help with the gather in later on, making sure its the longest side of your long edge and not the side that you cut your curve along. Repeat for both ruffles.
The next step was to fold the ruffles in half and mark the half way point. This will sit on the shoulder seam when we add it to the garment.
I then gathered the ruffles by gently pulling on my top thread ( I used slightly different coloured threads earlier for this reason) I didn't tie off my threads just yet.
I clipped / Pinned the ruffle onto my shoulder seam and then at the 40cm on the front and back pieces (Right sides together)
Next, I distributed the ruffles as evenly as possible between the pinned points, making sure not to stretch the top itself.
I overlocked the ruffle to the top (Whilst the side seam is still open) on both sides.
The ruffle should now be attached the whole way round.
Final construction:
I turned my top inside out as you would for sewing up the side seams. i made sure that my ruffle was tucked inside so that only the overlocked edge can be seen.
I got the paper pattern piece back out to check where the arm hole should sit and marked this point on both sides.
I then sewed up the side seams, using my overlocker, taking care not to sew up the arm hole!!
Finally, I turned my top the right way round and hemmed the bottom! Ta-Da!
I hope this has helped, if you have any questions please get in touch on the Facebook group (Eliza Mac Fabrics) or on Instagram.